Italy · Amalfi Coast — A two-day guide
Positano
Two days in Positano: the town from the coast road down to the beach, then a choice between the Path of the Gods and a day on the water.
8 min read
Introduction
Positano is built largely on steps. The town drops from the coast road to the sea in a steep half-circle of houses, and much of it can only be crossed on foot. Distances on a map are short; the climbs are not. Plan each day in one direction, downhill where you can, and use the local bus for the way back up.
Stay at least one night. Arriving and leaving on the same day leaves little time once ferries and buses are counted, and the town is at its calmest early in the morning and in the evening. Day 1 covers the town itself. Day 2 is a choice: a morning on the Path of the Gods, or a day on the water. Each is a full day on its own.
Positano
At a glance
Time needed Two full days, with at least one night in town.
Where to base Near the beach for the fewest steps to the ferries and restaurants; higher up for views and quieter nights, with more climbing.
Best time May, June and September. July and August are the busiest months; many hotels and restaurants close from late autumn to spring.
Getting around On foot in town; SITA buses along the coast road; the local bus for the upper town and Nocelle.
Book ahead Hotels, dinner tables, the MAR tour and any private boat.
Getting there & around
By ferry
In season, ferries link Positano with Sorrento, Capri, Amalfi and Salerno, and arrive at the main pier on Spiaggia Grande. Services are seasonal and can be cancelled in rough seas. Check operators and timetables before you travel.
By SITA bus
SITA Sud buses run along the coast road between Sorrento and Amalfi. Buy tickets before boarding; check where and how on the official site. Positano’s two principal stops are Chiesa Nuova on the western upper side and Sponda on the eastern side; check which is closest to your accommodation and route. In summer, buses are often full.
By transfer
A private transfer from Naples airport or station is a simple option with luggage. Agree the drop-off point in advance, as cars cannot reach most hotels door to door.
By car
The coast road is narrow and slow in summer, and parking in Positano is in private, paid garages. Seasonal traffic rules can apply on the SS163; check them before you drive.
In town
A local bus service links the upper parts of the town with Montepertuso and Nocelle; check the current timetable before relying on it.
Porters
Porters can carry luggage between the pier, the bus stops and many hotels for a fee. Your hotel can arrange them.
The itinerary
Two days in Positano
Day 1
Positano from top to sea
Sponda · Via Cristoforo Colombo · Santa Maria Assunta · MAR · Spiaggia Grande · Fornillo
01
Sponda, above the centre
Start on the coast road at Sponda, on the eastern side of the town, where the view opens over the houses, the church dome and the beach. From here, most of the route trends downhill towards the sea.
- Allow 15 minutes
- Best Early morning, before the first ferries arrive
- Know If your bus stops at Chiesa Nuova, on the western upper side, walk down Viale Pasitea instead.
- Map Sponda ↗
02
Via Cristoforo Colombo and Via dei Mulini
Via Cristoforo Colombo winds down from Sponda past hotels and small shops to Piazza dei Mulini, where Via dei Mulini continues towards the church. The lanes here are lined with the linen clothing and made-to-measure sandals of the local Moda Positano tradition.
- Allow 45 minutes, with stops
- Know The descent is on paving and steps; wear shoes with grip.
- Map Via Colombo ↗
03
Santa Maria Assunta
The parish church sits just above the beach, under its dome of majolica tiles. Inside, above the altar, is a Byzantine icon of the Madonna.
- Allow 20 minutes
- Best Morning
- Know Dress modestly and avoid visiting during services.
- Map Santa Maria Assunta ↗
04
MAR, the Roman villa
Beneath the church, the MAR shows part of a Roman seaside villa buried by the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 AD. A raised walkway passes over frescoed walls in the Pompeian style and the medieval crypt.
- Allow About 30 minutes; visits are guided
- Book Check tickets, visit times and access conditions on the official site
- Official MAR Positano ↗
05
Spiaggia Grande
The main beach curves below the church, a pebble beach backed by the pier and the waterfront restaurants. Beach clubs rent loungers and umbrellas along much of it.
- Allow 1–3 hours
- Best Late afternoon, when the sun is lower
- Know Water shoes help on the pebbles.
- Map Spiaggia Grande ↗
06
The path to Fornillo
From the western end of Spiaggia Grande, a path follows the cliff to Fornillo, a smaller beach.
- Allow About 15 minutes each way
- Best Before sunset
- Map Fornillo ↗
Day 2
Choose your Positano
A · The active route · B · The coast from the water
Choose one. The walk takes most of the day with transfers, and a boat day needs calm seas. Doing both on the same day means rushing each.
A
The active route: Bomerano to Nocelle
The Sentiero degli Dei follows an old mule track high above the coast, from Bomerano, in the town of Agerola, to Nocelle, above Positano. Most walkers go in this direction, with the coast and Capri ahead. The path ends lower than it starts, but has modest ups and downs along the way.
- Getting there SITA bus to Amalfi, then the bus to Agerola; get off in Bomerano at Piazza Paolo Capasso. Start early.
- Allow Most of the day, including transfers
- Know Rocky, uneven ground and some exposed stretches: not suitable if you suffer from vertigo, and slippery in rain. Wear proper walking shoes and carry plenty of water.
- Back to Positano From Nocelle, take the local bus down, or the long stone staircase if your knees allow.
- Official Comune di Agerola ↗ · Parco dei Monti Lattari ↗
B
The coast from the water
Hire a small boat with a skipper, or join a shared boat trip from the main pier, to see the town from the sea and reach the coves either side of it. A day on the water can include a swim off the boat and lunch at a beach restaurant.
- Allow Half a day to a full day
- Book Private boats a few days ahead in summer
- Know Boats run mainly from spring to autumn and depend on sea conditions. Agree the route, duration and what is included before you leave.
- Lunch Da Adolfo, on Laurito beach; see Where to eat.
Beaches in brief
Four beaches, east to west
Laurito
A small cove east of the town, home to Da Adolfo; check access before you go.
Arienzo
A small beach east of Positano, below the coast road, reached by a long flight of steps.
Spiaggia Grande
The main beach, below the church and beside the pier, and the busiest in summer.
Fornillo
West of the centre, reached by the cliff path from Spiaggia Grande. Smaller than the main beach.
Check loungers, prices and access directly with each beach, and book in July and August.
If you have more time
Along the coast
Amalfi
The historic republic, east along the coast by ferry or bus. Read our Amalfi guide.
Capri
A day trip by seasonal ferry from the main pier. Read our Capri guide.
Ravello and Praiano
Ravello sits in the hills above Amalfi, reached by bus from Amalfi. Praiano is the next village east of Positano, quieter and closer.
Book ahead
- MAR, the Roman villa: tickets
- Ferries: Travelmar and Positano Jet
- Hotels and dinner tables in high season
- Private boats and beach loungers in July and August
Where to eat
Restaurants in Positano
Zass
€€€€Il San Pietro di Positano, Via Laurito
The restaurant of Il San Pietro, listed in the Michelin Guide, east of the town, with a view over Praiano and the sea. Much of the produce comes from the hotel's own garden. Smart dress is requested.
Best for a special dinner
La Sponda
€€€€Le Sirenuse, Via Cristoforo Colombo
The restaurant of Le Sirenuse, listed in the Michelin Guide. In good weather, dinner moves onto the terrace over the town, lit by candles.
Best for dinner with a view of the town
Da Adolfo
€€Laurito beach
An informal beach restaurant on Laurito. The restaurant runs its own boat for customers from the main pier; see the official website for how to book.
Best for a long lunch by the sea
Check menus and opening days, and book ahead in high season.
Where to stay
Hotels in Positano
Il San Pietro di Positano
On the cliff east of the town
A hotel built into the cliff, with rooms facing the sea and a lift down to a private beach. Check opening dates directly.
Best for seclusion outside the town
Le Sirenuse
Via Cristoforo Colombo
A family-run hotel in an eighteenth-century house above the centre, with views over the town. Check opening dates directly.
Best for staying in the heart of the town
Palazzo Murat
Via dei Mulini
A historic palazzo with a garden, a short walk from Santa Maria Assunta and the beach.
Best for a central stay with a garden
Practical
Before you go
Steps and access
Positano is steep, with few flat stretches. It is demanding for anyone with limited mobility; choose a hotel close to the beach or to a road.
Luggage
Travel light. Porters are available for a fee but are not compulsory; your hotel can arrange them.
Sea conditions
Ferries and boats can be cancelled in rough weather. Keep the bus as a fallback on travel days.
Season
Many hotels and restaurants open from spring to autumn only. Check dates before booking outside summer.
Crowds
Day visitors arrive by mid-morning. Walk the town early and keep the beach for the afternoon.
What to wear
Shoes with grip for the steps, hiking shoes for the Path of the Gods, and a light layer for churches.
The easiest way to experience Positano is to plan downhill, leave room for the sea, and choose one full day beyond the town.
Feels like home.
Nearby, and next
In this guide — Positano