France · Côte d'Azur — A two-day city guide
Nice
Two days between the Baie des Anges, the ochre streets of Old Nice, Castle Hill and the art of Cimiez — with the Riviera within easy reach.
5 min read
Introduction
Nice is compact enough to walk, and most of what a first visit needs sits along one curve of coast: the Promenade and the beach, Old Nice behind it, and Castle Hill at the eastern end of the bay.
The first day stays close to the water and ends on the hill. The second moves inland to the museums of Cimiez, then back down to the port and the eastern coast. The towns along the Riviera are easy to reach by train or bus, so they have their own section rather than being squeezed into the two days.
Nice
At a glance
Time needed Two full days for the city, plus a day for each trip along the coast.
Best base Old Nice for atmosphere and walking; the Carré d'Or, between Masséna and the Promenade, for a central grid of streets; the Port for a quieter neighbourhood close to the tram.
Best time May, June and September to early October. July and August are hot and busy.
Getting around On foot in the centre; tram and bus for the airport, Cimiez and the port; regional trains along the coast.
Book ahead Restaurants and hotels in high season, private beach clubs in summer, and museum tickets if you want a fixed time.
Getting there & around
From the airport
Tram line T2 links Nice Côte d'Azur Airport with the city centre, including Jean Médecin, and Port Lympia. Journeys to and from the airport need a dedicated airport ticket rather than a standard fare; check current tickets on Lignes d'Azur.
Along the coast
Regional TER trains from Nice-Ville, and some from Nice-Riquier, serve Villefranche-sur-Mer, Monaco and Menton. Buy tickets before boarding and check the timetable on the day.
In the city
The centre, Old Nice and the Promenade are best on foot. Use the tram and buses for Cimiez, the port and longer stretches of the seafront.
The itinerary
Two days in Nice
Day 1
The bay, Old Nice and Castle Hill
Promenade des Anglais · Place Masséna · Cours Saleya · Old Nice · Castle Hill
01
Promenade des Anglais and the beach
Start on the seafront in the morning, before the heat. The Promenade runs for several kilometres along the Baie des Anges; walk a stretch of it, then go down to the beach. It is made of large pebbles, so a towel alone is not very comfortable.
- Allow 1–2 hours
- Best Early morning
- Know Public and private beaches sit side by side; see Beaches in brief below.
02
Place Masséna and the Promenade du Paillon
From the Promenade, walk inland to Place Masséna, the main square, with its red façades, black-and-white paving and the Fontaine du Soleil. The seven figures on tall poles are "Conversation à Nice" by Jaume Plensa, lit in changing colours after dark. North of the square, the Promenade du Paillon is a long park with fountains and shade.
- Allow 30–45 minutes
- Best Mid-morning, or again after dark
03
Cours Saleya
A short walk south-east, the long square of the Cours Saleya holds the flower and food market most mornings, and an antiques market on Mondays. Arrive before midday to see the market at its fullest.
- Allow 45 minutes
- Best Before midday
- Official Cours Saleya ↗ · check current market days
04
Old Nice
Behind the Cours Saleya, Old Nice is a tight grid of narrow streets in ochre and terracotta. Walk to Place Rossetti and the Cathédrale Sainte-Réparate, then follow Rue de la Préfecture and Rue Droite. The lanes are shaded, which makes them a good choice for the middle of the day.
- Allow 1.5–2 hours, including lunch
- Eat Socca, the chickpea pancake of Nice, is widely sold in Old Nice.
- Map Place Rossetti ↗
05
Castle Hill
End the day on the Colline du Château, above the eastern end of the bay. Climb the steps from Old Nice, or take the free lift near Rue des Ponchettes. From the top the view takes in the whole bay, the roofs of Old Nice and the port on the other side. The park and the lift can close before sunset: check the times and leave room for the walk down.
- Allow 1–1.5 hours
- Best Late afternoon
- Map Castle Hill lift ↗
Day 2
Art, Cimiez and the port
Cimiez · Musée Chagall · Place Garibaldi · Port Lympia · The eastern coast
01
Cimiez and the Musée Matisse
Take the bus up to Cimiez, a residential hill north of the centre. The Musée Matisse occupies a red villa in a park of olive trees, beside the remains of the Roman arenas. The monastery gardens nearby are free and quiet in the morning.
- Allow 1.5–2 hours
- Best Morning
- Getting there Bus from the centre; check the Lignes d'Azur journey planner
- Official Musée Matisse ↗ · check opening days and tickets
02
Musée National Marc Chagall
On the way back down the hill, the Chagall museum holds his cycle of paintings on biblical themes in a building designed around them. Choose it as a complement to Matisse if you have the energy for two museums, or instead of it if you prefer one unhurried visit.
- Allow 1–1.5 hours
- Know Check the museum's closing day on the official site.
- Official Musée Chagall ↗
03
Place Garibaldi and Port Lympia
Continue down to Place Garibaldi, an arcaded square on the edge of Old Nice, and walk on to Port Lympia. The harbour is framed by tall houses in yellow and red, and lined with boats. It is a good area for lunch.
- Allow 1 hour, plus lunch
- Getting there Tram T2 stops at Port Lympia.
04
The eastern coast
In the afternoon, choose by time and energy. For a short walk, follow the coast road east of the port towards Coco Beach, a small rocky cove; the road has little shade. For more height, Mont Boron is a wooded hill with views back over the city: check the Lignes d'Azur route planner for a suitable access point.
- Allow 1 hour for Coco Beach; half a day for Mont Boron
- Map Coco Beach ↗ · Mont Boron ↗
By the sea
Beaches in brief
Public or private
Most of the seafront is free public beach. Private beach clubs rent loungers and parasols, and many serve lunch.
Pebbles
The beaches are made of large pebbles; water shoes make getting in and out much easier.
Summer
Services on public beaches are limited. Book a private beach club ahead in July and August.
Beyond the city
Day trips along the coast
Villefranche-sur-Mer · half or full day
A small town on a deep bay just east of Nice, with a harbour, a citadel and the Plage des Marinières, one of the few sandy beaches on this coast. TER train from Nice-Ville or Nice-Riquier.
Èze Village · half day
A medieval village on a rock high above the sea. A direct bus runs from Nice up to the village. The TER stops at Èze-sur-Mer, on the coast below; from there take the local bus or climb the Chemin de Nietzsche, a steep path. Check the current lines on Lignes d'Azur.
Monaco · full day
The Rock with the Palace and the old town, the harbour and Monte-Carlo. TER train to Monaco-Monte-Carlo.
Menton · full day
The last town before the Italian border, with a colourful old town rising above the sea. TER train along the coast.
Timetables change by season: check TER Sud ↗ and Lignes d'Azur ↗ on the day.
Book ahead
- Musée Matisse
- Musée Chagall
- Airport tram and buses
- Coastal trains
- Restaurants, hotels and beach clubs in high season
Where to eat
Restaurants in Nice
JAN
€€€€Port
Fine dining in a small, intimate room near the port; the address for a special dinner.
Best for a special dinner
Le Plongeoir
€€€East of the port
Mediterranean cooking on a platform built on a rock above the sea, east of the port; it fits the end of Day 2.
Best for the setting
Chez Pipo
€€Near the port
Socca and other Niçoise specialities in a simple room near the port.
Best for a simple local meal
Check menus and opening days, and book ahead in high season.
Where to stay
Hotels in Nice
Le Negresco
Promenade des Anglais
The historic grand hotel of the Promenade des Anglais, under its pink-and-green dome, facing the Baie des Anges.
Best for a classic Riviera stay
Hôtel du Couvent
Old Nice
A hotel in a former convent at the foot of Castle Hill, on the edge of Old Nice, with gardens; the quietest base for walking the old town.
Best for staying in Old Nice
Anantara Plaza Nice
Carré d'Or
A large central hotel between Place Masséna and the seafront, with a rooftop terrace; the most practical base for the tram and the Promenade.
Best for a central base
Practical
Before you go
Museums
Closing days vary between museums; check each one before planning the day.
Mondays
The Cours Saleya has the antiques market instead of flowers and food.
Heat
In summer, keep the Promenade and Castle Hill for the morning or late afternoon.
What to bring
Sun protection, water shoes for the pebbles and a light layer for the evening.
Churches
Cover shoulders to enter the churches of Old Nice.
Crowded areas
Keep an eye on bags along the Promenade and in the busiest lanes.
Begin by the water, keep the middle of the day for the shaded lanes, and save the hill for late afternoon.
Feels like home.
Nearby, and next
