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Italy · Lombardy — A two-day city guide

Milan

Two days between the Duomo rooftops, Brera, Leonardo's Last Supper and the Navigli at dusk.

6 min read

The white marble façade of the Duomo in daylight, seen from a raised terrace with greenery in the foreground.

Introduction

Milan works best when the two visits that need a fixed time, Leonardo's Last Supper and the Duomo terraces, are booked before you arrive. With those in place, the rest of each day can be planned on foot, one area at a time.

The two days below pair each booked visit with a neighbourhood nearby: the cathedral with the Galleria and Brera, the Last Supper with the castle, the park and the canals. Art, streets and the early-evening aperitivo alternate, with metro or tram only for the longer stretches.

Milan

At a glance

Time needed Two full days.

Best base Centro, Brera or Porta Venezia.

Best time Spring and early autumn.

Getting around On foot, with the metro and trams for longer distances.

Book ahead The Last Supper and the Duomo terraces; restaurants and hotels well in advance during Fashion Week and Design Week.

Getting there & around

Malpensa

The Malpensa Express runs to Milano Cadorna and Milano Centrale. Malpensa Express ↗

Linate

The M4 metro line connects the airport with San Babila in the centre. ATM ↗

Bergamo

Airport shuttle buses run to Milano Centrale; check the current operator and timetable. Milan Bergamo Airport ↗

In the city

ATM services accept contactless payment; use the same card or device throughout and follow the validation instructions shown on board or at the gates.

The itinerary

Two days in Milan

Day 1

The Duomo, Brera and the historic centre

01Duomo & terraces02Galleria03Piazza della Scala04Brera05Aperitivo

01

The Duomo and its terraces

Begin with the cathedral, then climb to the terraces among the spires and pinnacles, where the roof gives a close view of the marble carving and a wide one over the piazza and the city. Tickets are sold for the cathedral and the terraces, with access on foot or by lift.

The piazza and the entrance arch of the Galleria seen from the cathedral roof, beside a marble spire.Carved marble tracery and pinnacles framing a view across the cathedral roof.
From the terraces

02

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

Walk through the glass-roofed arcade that links Piazza del Duomo with Piazza della Scala. It is a passage as much as a destination, lined with cafés and shops beneath its iron and glass dome.

03

Piazza della Scala

At the far end of the Galleria, Piazza della Scala faces the opera house. If you want to go inside, the Museo Teatrale alla Scala covers the theatre's history and, when rehearsals allow, opens onto a view of the auditorium.

04

Brera and the Pinacoteca

Continue north along Via Verdi and Via Brera into Brera, a district of narrow streets, galleries and small shops. It is worth treating as three separate things.

First, the neighbourhood itself: walk Via Fiori Chiari, Via Madonnina and the streets around Via Brera, which need no ticket. Second, the Pinacoteca di Brera on the upper floors of the Palazzo di Brera, a major collection of Italian painting that deserves at least ninety minutes. Third, the Orto Botanico, a small historic garden behind the palazzo, with its own entrance and opening hours.

  • Allow 2–2.5 hours with the Pinacoteca
  • Know The Pinacoteca and the Orto Botanico keep separate hours; check both before planning the afternoon.
  • Official Pinacoteca di Brera ↗

05

Aperitivo in the centre or Brera

End the day with aperitivo, the early-evening drink served with small plates. For a classic start, Camparino in Galleria has stood in the Galleria, looking onto Piazza del Duomo, since 1915; otherwise Brera has plenty of options close to dinner.

Two spritz glasses and a plate of snacks on a terrace table, with the Duomo spires behind.
A green historic tram on the rails of a city street.
Tram and metro for the longer stretches

Day 2

Leonardo, the castle and the canals

01The Last Supper02Castello Sforzesco03Parco Sempione04Navigli & Darsena

01

Leonardo's Last Supper

Leonardo's mural of the Last Supper covers the end wall of the former refectory of the Dominican convent beside Santa Maria delle Grazie. Visitors enter in small groups at a fixed time, so plan the morning around your slot; the church itself can be visited separately.

Booking the Last Supper

  • Booking is always required; tickets go on sale quarterly, so check the official site for the next release date.
  • Arrive 30 minutes before your slot for a 15-minute visit in a small group.
  • Recheck the official site before you go.

cenacolovinciano.org ↗

The brick gate tower of the Castello Sforzesco above a lawn and a paved path.

02

Castello Sforzesco

From Santa Maria delle Grazie it is a reasonable walk of around 20 minutes along Corso Magenta and Via Carducci to the Castello Sforzesco, the brick fortress of the Visconti and Sforza families. Its courtyards are free to cross; the civic museums inside, including Michelangelo's last sculpture, the Rondanini Pietà, are ticketed.

03

Parco Sempione and the Arco della Pace

Behind the castle, Parco Sempione opens out towards the Arco della Pace, a natural pause between the fortress and the Neoclassical arch at the far end. Cross it at an easy pace, then take the metro or a tram towards the Navigli.

04

The Navigli and the Darsena

Arrive in the late afternoon at the Darsena, the old harbour basin where the canals meet. From there, a simple route follows the Naviglio Grande: walk along the south bank to the Vicolo dei Lavandai, the old washing place with its covered stone basins, then continue along the canal for as long as you like before choosing somewhere for aperitivo or dinner.

  • Best Late afternoon into the evening
  • Getting there Metro M2 to Porta Genova or Sant'Agostino, or a tram towards Porta Ticinese
  • Map Darsena ↗

If you have more time

More of Milan

Half a day

Villa Necchi and Porta Venezia

Villa Necchi Campiglio is a 1930s villa with its original interiors and garden, cared for by the FAI and open to visitors; check the official FAI page for current tickets and visit options. Continue on foot to Porta Venezia, where the streets around Corso Venezia and the Giardini Indro Montanelli have some of the city's finest Liberty-style buildings.

FAI · Villa Necchi Campiglio ↗

Half a day

Isola and Porta Nuova

Start at Piazza Gae Aulenti and the towers of Porta Nuova, including the Bosco Verticale, then cross into Isola, a smaller neighbourhood of older streets, workshops and cafés. It shows the contemporary city after two days in the historic one.

A full day

Lake Como or Bergamo

Both are reached by train from Milan. Give either a separate day: Como for the lake and its ferries, Bergamo for the walled Città Alta reached by funicular.

Book ahead

Where to eat

Restaurants in Milan

  1. Seta by Antonio Guida

    €€€€

    Mandarin Oriental

    Two Michelin stars. Antonio Guida's contemporary Italian cooking, with tasting menus, at the Mandarin Oriental near La Scala.

    Best for a landmark dinner

    Official website ↗

  2. Giacomo Arengario

    €€€

    Museo del Novecento

    Italian and Milanese classics on the third floor of the Museo del Novecento, with a loggia over Piazza del Duomo.

    Best for lunch or dinner close to the Duomo

    Official website ↗

  3. Ratanà

    €€€

    Porta Nuova

    Contemporary Milanese and Lombard cooking, in a former railway depot between Porta Nuova and Isola.

    Best for Milanese dishes such as risotto alla milanese, near Porta Nuova

    Official website ↗

Where to stay

Hotels in Milan

  1. Bulgari Hotel Milano

    Brera

    A contemporary hotel on a quiet street between Brera and Montenapoleone, set around a large private garden next to the Orto Botanico.

    Best for a garden and a quieter base

    Official website ↗

  2. Portrait Milano

    Quadrilatero della Moda

    A hotel in the former archiepiscopal seminary on Corso Venezia, around a courtyard that is open to the city as a public square.

    Best for design, the fashion district and Porta Venezia

    Official website ↗

  3. Mandarin Oriental Milan

    La Scala · Montenapoleone

    A hotel in four 18th-century buildings between La Scala and Via Montenapoleone, with Seta and a spa.

    Best for staying a walk from the Duomo and La Scala

    Official website ↗

Practical

Before you go

Trade fairs

Design Week and Fashion Week raise demand and prices for hotels and restaurants; check the dates before booking.

Driving

Area C restricts traffic in the centre. Comune di Milano · Area C ↗

Museums

Closing days vary between museums; check each one before planning the day.

The Duomo

Cover shoulders and knees to enter the cathedral.

Pickpockets

Take normal care in crowded places and on public transport.

Book the Last Supper and the terraces, walk the rest, and let each day end with aperitivo.

Feels like home.