Italy · Lombardy — A two-day city guide
Milan
Two days between the Duomo rooftops, Brera, Leonardo's Last Supper and the Navigli at dusk.
6 min read
Introduction
Milan works best when the two visits that need a fixed time, Leonardo's Last Supper and the Duomo terraces, are booked before you arrive. With those in place, the rest of each day can be planned on foot, one area at a time.
The two days below pair each booked visit with a neighbourhood nearby: the cathedral with the Galleria and Brera, the Last Supper with the castle, the park and the canals. Art, streets and the early-evening aperitivo alternate, with metro or tram only for the longer stretches.
Milan
At a glance
Time needed Two full days.
Best base Centro, Brera or Porta Venezia.
Best time Spring and early autumn.
Getting around On foot, with the metro and trams for longer distances.
Book ahead The Last Supper and the Duomo terraces; restaurants and hotels well in advance during Fashion Week and Design Week.
Getting there & around
Malpensa
The Malpensa Express runs to Milano Cadorna and Milano Centrale. Malpensa Express ↗
Linate
The M4 metro line connects the airport with San Babila in the centre. ATM ↗
Bergamo
Airport shuttle buses run to Milano Centrale; check the current operator and timetable. Milan Bergamo Airport ↗
In the city
ATM services accept contactless payment; use the same card or device throughout and follow the validation instructions shown on board or at the gates.
The itinerary
Two days in Milan
Day 1
The Duomo, Brera and the historic centre
01Duomo & terraces02Galleria03Piazza della Scala04Brera05Aperitivo
01
The Duomo and its terraces
Begin with the cathedral, then climb to the terraces among the spires and pinnacles, where the roof gives a close view of the marble carving and a wide one over the piazza and the city. Tickets are sold for the cathedral and the terraces, with access on foot or by lift.
- Allow 1.5–2 hours
- Book Tickets and time slots in advance
- Official Duomo di Milano ↗


02
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
Walk through the glass-roofed arcade that links Piazza del Duomo with Piazza della Scala. It is a passage as much as a destination, lined with cafés and shops beneath its iron and glass dome.
- Allow 30 minutes
- Map Galleria ↗
03
Piazza della Scala
At the far end of the Galleria, Piazza della Scala faces the opera house. If you want to go inside, the Museo Teatrale alla Scala covers the theatre's history and, when rehearsals allow, opens onto a view of the auditorium.
- Allow 15 minutes; 1 hour with the museum
- Official Teatro alla Scala ↗
04
Brera and the Pinacoteca
Continue north along Via Verdi and Via Brera into Brera, a district of narrow streets, galleries and small shops. It is worth treating as three separate things.
First, the neighbourhood itself: walk Via Fiori Chiari, Via Madonnina and the streets around Via Brera, which need no ticket. Second, the Pinacoteca di Brera on the upper floors of the Palazzo di Brera, a major collection of Italian painting that deserves at least ninety minutes. Third, the Orto Botanico, a small historic garden behind the palazzo, with its own entrance and opening hours.
- Allow 2–2.5 hours with the Pinacoteca
- Know The Pinacoteca and the Orto Botanico keep separate hours; check both before planning the afternoon.
- Official Pinacoteca di Brera ↗
05
Aperitivo in the centre or Brera
End the day with aperitivo, the early-evening drink served with small plates. For a classic start, Camparino in Galleria has stood in the Galleria, looking onto Piazza del Duomo, since 1915; otherwise Brera has plenty of options close to dinner.
- Best Early evening
- Classic Camparino in Galleria ↗


Day 2
Leonardo, the castle and the canals
01The Last Supper02Castello Sforzesco03Parco Sempione04Navigli & Darsena
01
Leonardo's Last Supper
Leonardo's mural of the Last Supper covers the end wall of the former refectory of the Dominican convent beside Santa Maria delle Grazie. Visitors enter in small groups at a fixed time, so plan the morning around your slot; the church itself can be visited separately.
- Allow About an hour including arrival
- Book Required; see below
- Official Museo del Cenacolo Vinciano ↗
Booking the Last Supper
- Booking is always required; tickets go on sale quarterly, so check the official site for the next release date.
- Arrive 30 minutes before your slot for a 15-minute visit in a small group.
- Recheck the official site before you go.

02
Castello Sforzesco
From Santa Maria delle Grazie it is a reasonable walk of around 20 minutes along Corso Magenta and Via Carducci to the Castello Sforzesco, the brick fortress of the Visconti and Sforza families. Its courtyards are free to cross; the civic museums inside, including Michelangelo's last sculpture, the Rondanini Pietà, are ticketed.
- Allow 1–1.5 hours with the museums
- Official Castello Sforzesco ↗
03
Parco Sempione and the Arco della Pace
Behind the castle, Parco Sempione opens out towards the Arco della Pace, a natural pause between the fortress and the Neoclassical arch at the far end. Cross it at an easy pace, then take the metro or a tram towards the Navigli.
- Allow 45 minutes
- Map Arco della Pace ↗
04
The Navigli and the Darsena
Arrive in the late afternoon at the Darsena, the old harbour basin where the canals meet. From there, a simple route follows the Naviglio Grande: walk along the south bank to the Vicolo dei Lavandai, the old washing place with its covered stone basins, then continue along the canal for as long as you like before choosing somewhere for aperitivo or dinner.
- Best Late afternoon into the evening
- Getting there Metro M2 to Porta Genova or Sant'Agostino, or a tram towards Porta Ticinese
- Map Darsena ↗
If you have more time
More of Milan
Half a day
Villa Necchi and Porta Venezia
Villa Necchi Campiglio is a 1930s villa with its original interiors and garden, cared for by the FAI and open to visitors; check the official FAI page for current tickets and visit options. Continue on foot to Porta Venezia, where the streets around Corso Venezia and the Giardini Indro Montanelli have some of the city's finest Liberty-style buildings.
Half a day
Isola and Porta Nuova
Start at Piazza Gae Aulenti and the towers of Porta Nuova, including the Bosco Verticale, then cross into Isola, a smaller neighbourhood of older streets, workshops and cafés. It shows the contemporary city after two days in the historic one.
A full day
Lake Como or Bergamo
Both are reached by train from Milan. Give either a separate day: Como for the lake and its ferries, Bergamo for the walled Città Alta reached by funicular.
Book ahead
Where to eat
Restaurants in Milan
Seta by Antonio Guida
€€€€Mandarin Oriental
Two Michelin stars. Antonio Guida's contemporary Italian cooking, with tasting menus, at the Mandarin Oriental near La Scala.
Best for a landmark dinner
Giacomo Arengario
€€€Museo del Novecento
Italian and Milanese classics on the third floor of the Museo del Novecento, with a loggia over Piazza del Duomo.
Best for lunch or dinner close to the Duomo
Ratanà
€€€Porta Nuova
Contemporary Milanese and Lombard cooking, in a former railway depot between Porta Nuova and Isola.
Best for Milanese dishes such as risotto alla milanese, near Porta Nuova
Where to stay
Hotels in Milan
Bulgari Hotel Milano
Brera
A contemporary hotel on a quiet street between Brera and Montenapoleone, set around a large private garden next to the Orto Botanico.
Best for a garden and a quieter base
Portrait Milano
Quadrilatero della Moda
A hotel in the former archiepiscopal seminary on Corso Venezia, around a courtyard that is open to the city as a public square.
Best for design, the fashion district and Porta Venezia
Mandarin Oriental Milan
La Scala · Montenapoleone
A hotel in four 18th-century buildings between La Scala and Via Montenapoleone, with Seta and a spa.
Best for staying a walk from the Duomo and La Scala
Practical
Before you go
Trade fairs
Design Week and Fashion Week raise demand and prices for hotels and restaurants; check the dates before booking.
Driving
Area C restricts traffic in the centre. Comune di Milano · Area C ↗
Museums
Closing days vary between museums; check each one before planning the day.
The Duomo
Cover shoulders and knees to enter the cathedral.
Pickpockets
Take normal care in crowded places and on public transport.
Book the Last Supper and the terraces, walk the rest, and let each day end with aperitivo.
Feels like home.
In this guide — Milan